FreeTalk ConnectMe power supply

[viafax999]

Does anybody know if there is anywhere that I can obtain a freetalk connectme power supply?
After a close lightening strike over the weekend mine is now defunct, along with many other things!!.  Guess I could just buy another complete device but thought I'd query first.

I see it is just a snap on clip to release it from the device so assume it should be possible to get a replacement.

[Connect-Me_PRO]

Hi viafax999,

Unfortunately spare parts are not offered separately and to be quite honest, it would be best to replace the whole unit, as the power surge may have caused damage to the unit internally which may render it unsafe to use.

Best regards,

Connect-Me Pro

[PPHH]

I had a failed power supply and fixed it. The Freetalk power supply unclips from the unit. It is a 5V 1A supply and any good quality unit that meets these specs will work. It is just necessary to arrange to connect the outputs with correct polarity. The polarity is clearly marked on the base of the original units. Manufacturers should supply spare power units or use standard replaceable external units. Those that don't should be avoided.

[techfreak]

That propriety connector though on the fragile side (I have one that has developed a crack) leaves room open to swap it out with other country connectors.  As long as the polarity is correct you should not have a problem adapting it for use with any 5VDC 1A power sources (wall warts, etc).  Another neat thing that you can do is adapt it for use with a high current single USB or standard USB Y-cable.  This way you could potentially run it off your laptop and get the necessary 1 Ampere you need.   This makes it a little more portable.  You could then plug it into a high current single /double USB to AC adapter 1A+ to convert it for AC use.  Hopefully in the future, Freetalk will allow that adapter to be orderable.  It seems rather foolish if it isn't.

[plutocratz]

Can you please share your solution, exactly what to buy and from where ?

[viafax999]

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plutocratz wrote:
Can you please share your solution, exactly what to buy and from where ?

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In case he doesn't reply.

My guess is that what he is saying is to cut the device end off a usb cable and then strip back the sheathing.  Inside you'll find 4 or 5 wires, dependant on cable type.

For a standard usb cable (the big connector) pin 1 is the +5v and pin 4 is -5v.  Typically the pin 1 wire will be red (or orange) and the pin 4 wire black (or blue).  Strip the sheathing a little on the 2 wires and attach (probably solder) them to the relevant marked connections on the Free Talk device (with the supplied power supply removed).

Then when you connect that modified usb cable to a usb port it will deliver the requisite power to the Free Talk device.

See this url for a description of various different usb cables

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_Serial_Bus

[techfreak]

Basically what viafax999 stated is correct.  The only two wires you are concerned with are the +5 (red) and the return Gnd (black).  The device has a polarity.  If if you reverse it, it shouldn't fry (due to the protection circuit), it just won't power up.  I tested mine out to prove that and I had no issue.  If you are reading the back label of the device, the left connector is +5V (common) and the right connector is Gnd (return).  I took a picture of it working (it may take some time to display on the forums).   Due to the fact that I didn't feel like cutting into a good USB cable, I used what I had.  Normally you would cut into the Y-cable or purchase a different Y-Cable to allow you to plug the device into both USB ports.  I only plugged in one end since I used the other one to leech the power.  Normally you would splice into the mini-USB connector and plug the other 2 ends into the computer.  This would allow you do draw more additional current greater than 500mAh bringing it closer to the required 1A (1000mAH) for stable operation.   You could also use a USB to AC wall adapter as show in the picture, just make sure you get one as close to 1A or greater.

If this is going to be permanent, you would want to solder the wires and use insulating tape at the minimum.  In my test I just looped the wire around the posts.